Inokashira Park Benzaiten Shrine

There is a curse on this lake. For over two hundred years, Tokyoites have believed that any couple who rides a swan boat together on Inokashira Pond will break up. The goddess Benzaiten, enshrined on the small island in the middle of the water, is said to be intensely jealous of happy couples in her domain. She is one of the seven gods of good fortune, but apparently her goodwill does not extend to romance happening on her pond.

The shrine dates to eleven ninety-seven, sitting on its little island surrounded by the still green water of the park's central pond. Benzaiten is associated with water, music, and eloquence — and apparently possessiveness over her territory. The legend has been passed down for generations, and it is one of those urban myths that everyone in Tokyo knows. Ask any Tokyoite about the swan boats and they will immediately tell you about the curse.

And yet couples still ride the boats. Every weekend, the pond is full of swan-shaped pedal boats carrying people who have heard the warning and decided to test it anyway. There is supposedly a loophole — if you visit the Benzaiten shrine after your boat ride and pay your respects, the goddess will spare your relationship. Whether anyone actually believes this or just treats it as a fun date activity is debatable, but the boats are never empty.

The park itself is beautiful, especially during cherry blossom season when the trees along the pond create a pink canopy over the water. It is also the site of the Studio Ghibli Museum nearby. But the real draw is this bizarre two-century-old superstition that refuses to die, sustained by a jealous goddess and a fleet of plastic swan boats.