Munich City Walk

Munich, often called Germany's most livable city, is also one of its most historic, artistic, and entertaining. Hi, I'm Rick Steves. Thanks for joining me on this guided walk through the center of Munich. Munich is big and modern, with a million and a half citizens.

But with its pedestrian-friendly historic core, it feels a lot like an easygoing Bavarian town. We'll start in the central square, see its famous Glockenspiel, stroll through a thriving open-air market, and visit historic churches with lavish Baroque decor. We'll sample chocolates at a venerable deli and take a spin through the world's most famous beer hall. Allow two or three hours for this walk.

Now, let's get going. A thousand years of history await us in one of Germany's greatest cities, Munich. To help us along the way, I've invited a good friend and virtual travel buddy. Welcome, Lisa.

Guten Tag, Herr Steves. Lisa will give us helpful directions and sightseeing tips throughout the tour. And my first tip is to be sure you get our tour updates. Just press the icon at the lower right of your device.

You'll find any updates and helpful instructions unique to this tour. Things like closures, opening hours, and reservation requirements. There's also tips on how to use this audio tour and even the full printed script. Yes, so pause for just a moment right now to review our updates and special tips.

It's okay. We'll wait. Now, Lisa, los gates. What?

Let's go. Oh, okay. Jawohl, Herr Steves. Let the tour begin.

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Tour Begins: Marienplatz

The tour begins. Marienplatz. Start at Marienplatz. This is Munich's main square, dominated by the Town Hall or Rathaus.

The U-Bahn stop Marienplatz puts you right there. Rick? Marienplatz, or Mary's Square, is a snapshot of the glory that is Munich. Take it in.

Great buildings, outdoor cafes, people bustling to work, shopping, or just hanging out. Lining one entire side of the square is the impressive façade of the New Town Hall with its soaring 280-foot-high spire. The New Town Hall, or Neues Rathaus, looks medieval, but it was actually built in the late 1800s. The style is neo-Gothic, pointed arches over the doorways and a roofline bristling with prickly spires.

The 40 statues look like medieval saints, but they're actually more modern Bavarian kings and nobles. This medieval-looking style was all the rage in the 19th century, as Germans were rediscovering their historical roots and uniting as a modern nation. The New Town Hall is famous for its Glockenspiel. A carillon in the tower chimes a tune while colorful little figurines come out on the balcony to spin and dance.

It happens daily most of the year at 11 o'clock, noon, and 5 o'clock. The spiel of the Glockenspiel tells the story of a noble wedding that actually took place here in Munich, in 1568. You see the wedding procession, the friendly joust of knights on horseback, and dancing coopers, or barrel makers. Now look higher, way up at the very top of the steeple.

There's a statue of a child with outstretched arms. He's dressed in monk's garb and holding a book in his left hand. This is the Münchner Kindle, the Munich child, the symbol of the city. You'll spot this mini-monk all over town, on everything, from the coat of arms to posters to tram cars and so on.

Ad campaigns love to show the monk holding not a book, but other things, a bundle of radishes or a giant beer. Over the centuries, the monk has gone through several transformations. He started as a grown man, wearing a black cloak with a gold lining and red shoes. Artists later represented him as a young boy, then a gender-neutral child.

More recently, the Münchner Kindle is portrayed as a young girl. As a matter of fact, every year, a teenage girl dressed as the Kindle kicks off Oktoberfest. She leads the opening parade on horseback, then serves as the mascot throughout the festivities. By the way, if you're interested, you can ride an elevator all the way to the top of the new town hall tower for great views of the city.

But for now, let's explore the rest of the square. The statue in the center of Marienplatz honors the square's namesake, the Virgin Mary. Sculpted in 1590, it was a rallying point in the religious wars of the Reformation. Back then, Munich was a bastion of Catholicism against the heresies of Martin Luther to the north.

Notice how, at the four corners of the statue, the cherubs are fighting the four great biblical enemies of civilization. See if you can find them. There's the dragon of war, the lion of hunger, the rooster-headed monster of plague and disease, and the serpent representing heresy, namely, Protestants. The serpent that's being stepped on represents the wrong faith, specifically, Martin Luther.

Bavaria is still Catholic country. In fact, Protestants weren't allowed to worship openly here until about 1800. Now, face the new town hall and look to the right. At the far end of the square, the gray, pointy building is the old town hall, or Altus Rathaus.

On the bell tower, find the city seal, with its Münchner Kindle and towers. The old town hall introduces us to a darker side of more recent Munich history. It was in the old town hall that, on November 9th, 1938, Hitler called for Germans to rise up and ransack everything Jewish. On what came to be called Kristallnacht, throughout the land, synagogues were burned and shops were trashed.

Later on this walk, at a historic synagogue, we'll learn more about this sad chapter in German history and the devastation of World War II. As you look around, keep in mind that Marienplatz and much of Munich were heavily bombed during World War II. The old town hall looks new because it was completely destroyed by World War II bombs and had to be rebuilt. The new town hall survived the bombs and it served as the U.S.

military headquarters after the Americans liberated Munich in 1945. Most of the buildings around you were destroyed in the war and then rebuilt, either matching their original design or in a modern style. Before we move on, face the new town hall one more time and get oriented. Straight ahead is north.

To the left stretches the pedestrian shopping street called Kaufingerstrasse, which leads to the old gate called Karlstor and the train station beyond that. Our tour explores a bit of this busy street later. To the right, the road leads to the Isartor Gate and to the Deutsches Museum. This east-west axis cuts right through the historic core of Munich and this core is circled by a ring road, formerly the old town wall.

In the center of it all sits Marienplatz. Let's move on. Lisa? As you face the new town hall, look over your right shoulder to the southeast corner of Marienplatz.

Just beyond the square is our next stop, St. Peter's Church. You'll see its steeple poking up above a row of buildings. Start walking there while Rick takes us back to Munich's historical beginnings. St. Peter's Church

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St. Peter’s Church

As you approach St. Peter's Church, you're walking back in time to the very origins of the city. It's the oldest church in town and it stands on the hill where Munich's original inhabitants probably settled. Back in the 1100s, there was a monastery here.

The tiny town got its name from the people who lived here, the monks, or Munchen. That's why the city symbol is a little monk. They eked out a living trading a valuable commodity back then, salt. Then a Bavarian prince named Henry the Lion muscled in on their salt trade.

He built a toll bridge nearby over the Isar River to control trade. Henry built walls and towers and opened a market and peasants flocked in from the countryside. Marienplatz was the center of the town and it stood at an important crossroads along the Salt Road which ran from Salzburg to Augsburg. Traditionally, Munich was founded in the year 1158.

In 2008, the city celebrated its 850th birthday. St. Peter's Church dates from 1364 having replaced the original monastery church. It's part of the soul of the city.

Locals call the church Old Peter. There's even a popular song about it that goes, Munich is not Munich without St. Peter's. The church's 300-foot spire has 300 steps leading all the way to the top.

No elevator, but the view is dynamite. Now, step into the church's entryway and look for some old photographs. As you can see, St. Peter's was badly damaged in World War II, but the beloved church was rebuilt and restored thanks to private donations.

If there's a mass in progress, visitors are welcome, but stay in the back. If there's no mass, you're free to explore. Start with the second chapel on the left side. Now there's something you don't see every day, a skeleton in a box.

As the Red Latin inscription says, this was a woman named Manditia. In the 4th century, she was beheaded by the Romans for her Christian faith. Munich has more relics of saints than any city outside of Rome. That's because, for more than 100 years, this was the pope's bastion against the rising tide of Protestantism in Northern Europe during the Reformation.

In 1675, Manditia's remains were given to Munich by the pope as a thanks for their devoted service in the defense of the Roman Catholic Church. It was also a vivid reminder that those who die for the cause of the Roman Church go directly to heaven without waiting for Judgment Day. Continue further into the church. The nave is lined with bronze statues of apostles, and the altar shows a statue of St.

Peter being adored by four church fathers. The finely crafted gray iron fences along the nave were donated after World War II by the local blacksmiths of the National Railway. The altar and ceiling frescoes were markedly marvelously restored, something made possible because the Nazis photographed everything before the bombs fell. They chronicled everything in case the worst happened and they needed a visual guide to rebuild after the war.

After World War II, the bells played a popular tune that stopped before the last note, reminding locals that the church still needed money for the Reconstruction. Overhead on the ceiling, you'll see Peter crucified upside down. To the left of the menu, the main altar is a Gothic chapel altar. It's made of precious and fragile sandstone, and it only survived the war because it was buried in sandbags.

Let's leave the church and continue our walk. As you exit St. Peter's, circle to the left, heading toward the back end of the church. So once outside, start walking alongside the church, walking its entire length to the back end.

We're headed from one of Munich's most characteristic religious sites, to one of its great people-gathering ones. As you approach the back end of the church, keep going as the street slopes downhill. You'll pass between the buildings, emerging into a vast open-air space full of kiosks, trees, and, at the right time of day, happy shoppers. You're entering the colorful Victualian Markt. The Victualian Markt.

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Viktualienmarkt

As you enter among the stalls and pavilions, just browse around as you slowly make your way to the market's main landmark, the blue-and-white striped maypole. You may have already spotted the maypole. It's to the right of where you entered, poking its tip above the buildings about 50 yards away. Start making your way there by plunging deeper into the cluster of stalls.

The market is a lively world of produce stands and budget eateries. Early in the morning, you can still feel small-town Munich here. There's been a market on this spot since the city's earliest days as a stop on the salt trade crossroads. By the 1400s, the market bustled, most likely beneath a traditional maypole, just like you see today.

Besides the lucrative salt trade, Munich gained a reputation for beer. More than 30 breweries pumped out the golden liquid, brewed by monks who were licensed to sell it. They stored their beer in cellars under courtyards kept cool by the shade of bushy chestnut trees. That beer tradition continues in Munich to this day.

As you make your way to the maypole, you'll pass what seems to be the market centerpiece, the beer garden. Its picnic tables are filled with hungry and thirsty locals, all in the shade of the traditional chestnut trees. Shoppers pause here for a late-morning snack of Weisswurst, white sausage, served with mustard, a pretzel, and a beer. Here, you can order just half a liter, unlike at other beer gardens that only sell by the full liter.

This is handy for shoppers who just want a quick sip so they can keep on going. In fact, a beer sounds like a good idea right about now. I don't know, Rick. We can make a beer stop later.

Maybe you're right. For now, notice the beer vending counter. Munich's seven breweries take turns selling here. The sign Heute im Ausschank announces which of the seven brews is being served today.

As is the tradition at all beer gardens, a few tables, those without tablecloths, are set aside for picnickers. You can bring in your own food as long as you buy a drink. Now, make your way to the towering maypole. Throughout Bavaria, you'll see colorfully ornamented maypoles decorating town halls.

Many are painted like this one in Bavaria's colors, white and blue. The decorations are festively replaced every year on the first of May. Traditionally, rival communities try to steal each other's maypole. Locals guard their new pole day and night as May Day approaches.

Stolen poles are ransomed only with lots of beer for the clever thieves. The decorations that line each side of the pole explain which merchants are doing business in the market. Munich's Maypole shows the city's seven great breweries. And you can't have a kegger without coopers.

Find the merry barrel makers, the four cute guys dancing. Today, traditional barrel making is enjoying a comeback as top breweries like to have real wooden kegs. The bottom of the pole celebrates the world's oldest food law. The Rheinheitsgebot, or German Beer Purity Law of 1516, actually originated here, in Bavaria.

It stipulated that beer could only consist of three ingredients barley, hops, and water. No additives. It wasn't until later that they realized that a fourth ingredient, yeast, is always present in fermentation. Why was beer so valuable?

Back in the Middle Ages, it was considered liquid food. From the Maypole, continue south, browsing through more produce stands and eateries. The market was modernized in the 1800s as the city grew. Old buildings were torn down, replaced with stalls and modern market halls.

Now, in the 21st century, it's a wonder such a traditional place survives. It sits on the most expensive real estate in all of Munich. But locals love their market. So the city protects these old-time shops, charging them only a small percentage of their gross income, and that enables them to carry on.

The city also keeps out fast food chains. This keeps the market classy and feeling authentic. Muencheners consider the produce here to be top quality, if on the expensive side. Keep making your way down to the bottom end of the market.

As you start to emerge from the market stalls, keep an eye out for a landmark up ahead, a stark white building. This is the trendy shore beer hall. Achtung, schnell! Hit the pause button.

Let's get a beer. Sorry, Lisa. For us, it's a landmark, not a rest stop. When you see the white, offshore beer hall, turn right.

Keep the beer hall on your left and circle it counterclockwise. Okay, but let's definitely get a beer later. Deal. Just past shore is a modern glass and iron building.

It's the Schronen Hall. This former grain exchange was first built back in the 1800s. It fell into disrepair and suffered fire damage before being rebuilt in the 21st century. Today, the Schronen Hall is occupied by Eataly, a high-end Italian deli.

Achtung, schnell! Let's stop for a biscotti. Yes, this place is definitely worth popping into, at least for a look. Inside, it's a bustling scene of tasty Italian delicacies.

The popularity of Eataly here is a reminder that Munich has long had a close connection with and an affinity for Italy. In fact, locals joke that theirs is the northernmost Italian city. If you're ready for a break, you could pause the audio tour now. And if you need a rest stop, downstairs, there's a handy public toilet.

When you're ready to move on, exit the Schronen Hall midway down on the right-hand side. You'll spill out into Sebastian's Platz. The small square is lined with healthy eateries. Continue through Sebastian's Platz and veer left.

You'll soon reach the synagogue. It's not far, but if you get lost, just ask anyone about the synagogue. The Jewish Synagogue

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Jewish Synagogue

This modern, cube-shaped structure anchors a revitalized Jewish quarter. In the 1930s, about 10,000 Jews lived in Munich, and the main synagogue stood near here. Then, in 1938, Hitler ordered that the synagogue be destroyed. By the end of World War II, Munich's Jewish community was gone.

But thanks to Germany's acceptance of religious refugees from former Soviet states, the Jewish population has now reached its pre-war size, 10,000 people. The new synagogue was built in 2006. There's also a kindergarten and day school, children's playground, a fine kosher restaurant at No. 18, and a bookstore.

Standing in the middle of the square, notice the low, key, but effective security. While the synagogue is shut tight to non-worshippers, its architecture is striking from the outside. Lower stones of travertine evoke the wailing wall in Jerusalem. The upper section represents the tent that held important religious items during the Israelites' 40 years of wandering through the desert.

The synagogue's door features the first ten letters of the Hebrew alphabet, symbolizing the Ten Commandments. Behind the cube-shaped synagogue is the cube-shaped Jewish History Museum, stark and windowless. While I found the museum's small permanent exhibit disappointing, good temporary exhibits might justify the entry fee. Facing the synagogue on the same square is the Munich City Museum.

The fine museum covers Munich's history from medieval to modern. Even if you don't visit the museum, the adjacent souvenir shop in the corner of the museum and the courtyard is entertaining. But for now, let's continue our walk. From here, it's several hundred yards to our next stop, the Assam Church.

To get there, continue straight through the synagogue square past the fountain. As you walk, let me give the Assam Church a little historical context. Like the synagogue, its story is linked to centuries of religious strife. Remember that Munich was born a very religious town, sprouting from the monastery.

As you recall, Excuse me, Rick, some quick directions. Once past the fountain, you'll reach a cross street. Keep going straight ahead crossing that street. Continue further on what's now called Dolzstrasse.

Keep going one block until you reach another cross street. Okay, Rick. As I was saying, to understand the Assam Church with its Catholic Baroque decor, remember the culture it came from. Munich had strong religious roots.

Built around a Benedictine monastery. The town's first ruler was Henry the Lion, who built a bridge and fortifications. That's why the city's coat of arms still features a monk, a lion, and a castle. After Henry, the next duke was a member of the Wittelsbach family.

The Wittelsbachs would go on to rule Munich for the next 700 years. More on them later. By 1500, Munich was a thriving town in the salt and beer trade. With 14,000 people, a sizable city back then, it was the natural capital of the region of Bavaria.

Excuse me again, Rick. Some more directions. By now, you should be coming to a T-intersection. When you reach the intersection, turn left on Sendlingerstrasse.

Start walking south about 100 yards to reach the Assam Church. Rick? With the Assam Church, we enter the next phase, the Baroque phase of Munich's story. As you recall, in the 1500s, Germany was torn in two by the Protestant Reformation.

The northern half joined Martin Luther's Protestants. The southern part, especially Bavaria, remained staunchly Catholic. Through the religious wars of the 15th and 1600s, Munich was the northern outpost of Catholic orthodoxy for the pope in Rome. The region even took its cultural cues from Rome.

Churches sprouted up in the Italian Catholic style, Baroque and Rococo. Architects used every artistic medium —architecture, painting, sculpture, even lighting— to turn churches into an overwhelming multimedia experience. Which brings us to the Assam Church. Exactly.

So as we approach this Baroque church, how about we enjoy a little Baroque music to get us into the mood? This musical selection is a dance piece called a gavotte, so a little skip to the side every now and then is perfectly appropriate. Keep walking or skipping as you listen. The music is a little bit more of a dance piece.